Brandide and its Kin

According to Larousse Gastronomique, brandide is: A purée of salt cod (bacalo), olive oil, and milk, which is a speciality (sic) of Languedoc and Provence. ( garlic and potato were not in the original). Brandade de Moure Nimoise:

Desalt 1 kg salt cod, changing water several times. divide, poach gently, drain bone, and skin. Heat ¾ cup olive oil in flat bottom pan, add cod, crush with wooden spoon. Work cod into a paste while heating gently, remove from heat, incorporate 2 cups olive oil, 1 cup cream, and S&wP. It should resemble and be the consistency of mashed potatoes.

Cooks like to show off their chops, ( as do we all ) and simple dishes get subsumed into extravaganzas. Dominique Macquet offers Lemongrass Brandade Galette with Tamarind and Coconut Relish, with Caramelized Fennel-Shrimp Broth in his New Orleans restaurant. If you don't have a sous chef, a specialty purveyor, a large pot of shrimp stock on the stove, and several go-fers, it may be best to let him make it and you sit and enjoy it. For reference, the recipe is in August 2002, Louisiana Cookin' or his book Dominique's Fresh Flavors. A sub-assembly (the relish) you might use next spring is as follows:

Peel and grate 1 coconut, reserve 1 cup milk. Purée 2 pcs tamarind (seeded), 3T olive oil, 1t ginger juice, 1 jalapeño (seeded, juiced) 1 clove garlic, and reserved coconut milk. Add coconut, 1t fresh cilantro, 1t fresh mint, S&P.

Now this brings us to an Americanized variation. It's a bit lighter, much tamer, ( farmhouse be gone) and uses easier to obtain ingredients. Used as an appetizer, antipasto, or small plate. From the SF Chronicle 9/20/09.

• Boil 8 oz Yukon Gold until tender, rub off skin, rice, S&P, let cool. Sauté ¼ c minced onion and clove garlic until clear. Process onion and garlic with 8 oz smoked trout, 3 T olive oil and 2 T cool water. When smooth add potato, pinch of cayenne, 2 more T olive oil and ¼ cup manufacturing (whipping) cream. Spoon into ramekins or baking dish, cover, let rest.
• At Service: Let the dish come to room temperature. Sprinkle top with Panko, bring to heat in 350° oven and use the salamander if the top still needs browning. Use as a dip, spread for bruschetta, or put on some pretty-pretty for use as a small plate casserole.