Speaking of Artichokes

A bit too mature for eating

Artichokes are out of season in most places, but you can get plenty here and the glassed hearts are always available. Here are some notes on artichoke prep and a dip recipe you can use around Thanksgiving.

Preparation is pretty straightforward. For those in doubt, refer to Pépin's Techniques or here. On acidulated water, lemons are expensive, tablets of vitamin C comparatively less so. Powder a tablet of the cheap brand and dissolve it in place of the half lemon. (no kids, the racemization of the vitamin in the manufacturing process doesn't make a lick of difference in this instance. Go with cheap.) Artichokes have a truckload of unusual compounds in them. We're concerned with two here. Polyphenol oxidase (also called tyrosinase), when combined with oxygen, turns a lovely, gooey gray. It also stains reactive metals, like that expensive steel chef's knife you just bought. The bottom line, use a non-reactive pot, a cheap knife, and keep the choke in acidulated water while preping. The second compound is cynarin. This affects the taste buds, making things taste sweeter. ( a research abstract is here) This is probably the reason behind the recommendation that artichokes not be served with wine. Use your own judgment, but remember that vinophiles (read wine(y) poseurs) can be so vocal about something they read somewhere.

About half the published recipes contain a blanc,(¼ c flour, 6 c water, salt, lemon juice) the others don't. The difference is in storage. If you're going to use the choke straight from the pot, don't bother with the blanc, if you're going to set them aside for use later, cook them in the blanc and refrigerate them in the cooking liquid. (Julia Child's discussion and recipe here. A final note: If you have a pressure cooker, give it a try. The resulting texture is smooth and almost jellied.

Artichoke Dip:
• 1 (10-ounce) package frozen chopped spinach
• 2 (13 3/4-ounce) cans artichoke hearts
• 1/2 cup mayonnaise
• 1/2 cup sour cream
• 1 cup freshly grated Parmesan
• 1 cup grated jack cheese

Notes: Squeeze the spinach dry. taste for S&P, Top with your favorite gratin and bake @350° until sides bubble. (heated through) Alternative ingredients include roasted red peppers (no more than 4 or 5 oz, or else the dip gets a bit bloody-looking) Crab meat, Roasted eggplant, cut thin Hot chili flakes, to taste, Sour cream, 8 oz (replacing the mayo)