Thursday, October 1, 2009

Chicken Piccata

This dish is an old standby. The Villa de Chez Celebrity Chef probably serves squid ink gnocchi, made from Peruvian potatoes and pignon nuts bought down the mountain by an obscure religious order, but I suspect that chicken piccata has made an appearance at the staff table. This recipe, adapted from Cooks Illustrated: Feb 01, is tried and true. It serves four, but can ramped up or down easily.

Take four boneless breasts, skin if necessary, pull the tender, and trim. If you have the time, brine* them. Cut them in half horizontally* (butterfly), apply S&P to both sides and dredge in flour.
Bring a flat bottom pan to heat, oil lightly, and cook the chicken to brown on both sides. As the pieces curl, press them back into the heat. You're looking for even cooking. Cycle as many times as necessary. You don't want to crowd the chicken, and you definitely don't want to burn the fond building up. Hold done pieces in a low oven.
When the chicken is done, add a bit of oil and sauté a minced shallot until clear (30 sec.) If your mom is Italian you can also add 2 oz of prosciutto chiffinade. When this is ready, deglaze with one cup of chicken stock*, and add lemon slices (Half a lemon, sliced thinly, pole to pole) Reduce to 1/3 cup. Add the juice of 3/2 lemon and 2 T capers*. Simmer for a minute, take it off heat and mount* with 3 T unsalted butter. Add 2 T minced parsley, spoon sauce over reserved chicken, and serve.

Notes: Brining means to soak the breast in a salt / sugar solution for a few hours.... I know the traditional method is pounding, but that tradition dates back to when chicken referred to birds, not a genetically standardized meat production unit.... Most recipes use wine, but you're adding more acid and the wine flavor dulls the lemon flavor. (in my opinion) .... Use nonpareil size capers. Taste first and if too salty or vinegary, rinse them. If they taste good to you, toss 'em in.... Mount means to use butter to thicken a sauce and add gloss. You use small chunks of cold butter, one at a time, and whisk them into the sauce as they melt. It does not mean to float a spreader full of room temperature butter on the surface.

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